Wigs- Picking a winner with colors, types and textures:

This tutorial is more of a discussion and serves as a general overview about selecting wigs for cosplay. Generally speaking, most wig shops are not familiar with nor do they cater to this hobby, so many people planning costumes can feel uneasy picking a wig for the costume they have been working so hard on. Getting a wig is an investment and sometimes that investment is more than the money spent on fabric for the project. A good hairstyle can truly set your cosplay apart from the rest of the crowd, so here are some pointers to help you go out there in the world of hair and really pick a winner!

Kanekalon, Toyokalon, Eleora, Monofilament…. What’s it mean?

In wig shopping, you’ll see these terms a lot as they refer to the type of synthetic hair used in making a wig. These are broad generalities I’ve discovered over the years of working with wigs and, as always, your mileage may vary.

Generally speaking, monofilament is wonderful and usually found in wigs designed for everyday wear (it resembles human hair well) but you’ll rarely need or want something like this for cosplay as it tends to be extremely rare and pricy with limited styles available. Some of the finest synthetic wigs are monofilament with the hairline hand rooted onto wig lace, ala some of RuPaul’s hairpieces.

On the other end of the scale is Toyokalon, a lower grade of synthetic fiber that shows up in party wigs and some hair extentions. Wigs made out of this stuff are nearly always crappy and extentions, in all honesty are hit or miss. I’ve had WONDERFUL luck with some Toyokalon extentions, but it was few and far between. If you see a wig that is under $20, chances are its Toyokalon or a very poor grade of Kanekalon.

The best general purpose safe bet for cosplay hair is Kanekalon (sometimes branded as Eleora). It has a lovely, silky texture and is easy to find in every color you can imagine. There are differences by brand, but you would probably only notice if you work with wigs very often. Eleora Kanekalon is treated with a Teflon-ish substance that keeps the hair cleaner longer, but resists many spray dying techniques (it is a popular fiber used in New Look brand wigs). It feels like normal Kanekalon, perhaps a little silkier. Great cosplay wigs in Kanakalon fiber come from New Look and Sepia. My personal favorite is Sepia (the range of colors and versatility in styles is absolutely beyond compare) with New Look being an extremely close second. When in doubt go with these brands as they are tried and true. We stock them at CosWorx because they are the best.

One rule of thumb to always follow is you get what you pay for. It is wise to comparison shop within a brand, but not always by price alone. A good wig is an investment and one that is very much worth the few extra dollars for. You want a wig you can wear multiple times, wash and style over and over if need be. It will have a good amount of hair in it and have a nice weight and silkiness all around.  This won’t happen with a cheap wig, and that’s a fact. You’ll save money in the long run by getting a good wig the first time.

Wig Caps, heads and other underpinnings

The short story on wig caps, wig heads and bobby pins is GET THEM. A wig cap is a little stocking that you wear over you hair to keep it contained and flat for greater comfort in wearing a wig. This goes for all you who are bald or short haired, too. It’s like underwear for your wig and it really helps keep you comfortable and your wig clean. Get a wig cap in a color that coordinates with the color of the wig hair and seriously consider getting two in case you lose one at a convention or in the wash (The sock monster in the dryer eats wig caps, too, so watch out). If you have an emergency and are short a wig cap, cut the panty part out of some pantyhose and wear that. It works very well in a pinch.

Wig heads keep your wig in proper position and are also an attractive display device. Use some fat corsage or T-Pins to pin your wig to the foam head to preserve the style. They are very inexpensive and, if you are crafty, can be painted and decorated to suit your characters. If you like to style wigs, it is very easy to pad a foam wig out to match your head’s measurement, slip a wig cap over it and use it as a base for styling.

Bobby pins are also a must for wig wearing. Again, they, ideally, should coordinate to the color of the wig. These secure the wig to your head and also are used to pin the wig on in such a way that it hides your personal hair.

Also, seriously consider getting a brush specially designed for use on wigs. These will have metal teeth that are PAINFUL if used on your own head but do a great job brushing through synthetic hair. A logical partner to the wig brush is some special spray on conditioner for wigs. Good ones both smell pretty and keep the tangles away.

How do I find the right color?

In wigs, natural hair colors tend to be labeled in a standardized number system that is fairly universal. This means if you get a wig in color #1 (blackest black), and you get extensions in color #1 they will almost always match, even in varying brands. When it comes to party colors, there tends to be a bit more difference. That said, it is a very wise investment to get a color ring in both party and natural colors to keep with you so you know what you’re getting. Picking wig colors using pictures will get you close, but it is not an exact science.

The special cases- 1B, 24B and 613a vs. 60
These guys are asked about a lot at Cosworx, so I’ll take the mystery out of them for you. 1B is a very important color as it is a slightly warmer version of the blackest black. Very few people look good in such a stark black (especially cool tone skinned Caucasians like myself), so 1B is ideal because it is a slightly warmer off black that photographs better on those types of people. Unless you have dark or olive toned skin, 9 times out of ten, if you want to cosplay a black haired character, go with the 1B for maximum happiness.

24 (light blonde) vs. 24B is another conundrum. While the pictures sent by the popular wig companies make these two look very different, in reality, they are as close to each other as 1 and 1B are. While 24B is a little warmer, they are virtually indistinguishable in most cases. I’ve put 24 hued extensions in a 24B wig before and they matched perfectly. The skin tone comparison is not as stark as with black, though. If you look good in 24, chances are you will look great in 24B and vice versa.

613a is a variant on 613, bleached blonde. This is a good white tone with a yellow tinge to it. Color 60 is silver white, one I like to think of as a cool white. 613a is a warm white. Keep this in the back of your mind when you need a white wig so you find the one that is best for your skin tone. It’s also something to keep in mind if you like to dye wigs. 613a is a good choice for warm colors like orange, yellow and red and 60 makes a fine base for cool colors like blue, teal and green. All else aside, there is a true white (just called WHITE) sometimes available that is neutral.

A note on blends-
When picking a wig, color blends are usually more flattering and here’s why. Take a look at your own hair. You probably see several different colors throughout, right? This is part of the reason why your hair in all its multiple colors looks natural on you. Wigs are no different, so when possible try out a blend. The blonde blends like 613/24 are especially flattering on a variety of skin tones, but blends work great in party colors, too! Sepia makes blended tones like bubblegum (a hot pink/light pink blend) and sunshine (my favorite color, an orange/yellow blend) that photograph so beautifully with their subtle hue changes. Have fun and try them out!

Basic care and loving of wigs

Unless your wig is styled with glue, caulk or other permanent things (think Yu-Gi-Oh or anything with a superstructure inside), you can wash your wigs with care.

Use a wig shampoo and a sink full of cool water. Swish your wig around in the sink with a small amount of the shampoo and repeat until the wig is clean. Rinse the wig with cool water (think about using dish gloves, as the water should be cold enough to be annoying). For a touch of softness and to guard a bit against static, consider putting a teaspoon or so of liquid fabric softener in the rinse water (yes, it works and makes your wig, ummmm, April fresh, if you will). Always dry your wig with air and NEVER with heat. When I wash wigs, I like to hang them upside down on a hanger in front of an open window or on my back porch. After the wig is dry, shake it out and style it with love as usual. When treated with care, cosplay wigs can last for many years. My first Venus wig lasted me over five years. It was washed many times and worn quite often!

Remember, when not in use, keep your wig pinned to its head and in a cool, dry place. This will keep it happy for many years to come!